Some of Illinois’ top chefs are working to change the perception of Asian carp from a low-value nuisance fish that’s difficult to prepare to a culinary treat.
Earlier this month, chef Philippe Parola lead the preparations for a ‘Target Hunger Now!’ dinner event featuring Asian carp. The event was part of a humanitarian effort to raise awareness about hunger, hosted by the Illinois Department of Natural Resources and Feeding Illinois.
Asian carp is a popular fish in Europe and Asia, but many in the United States consider it a dirty bottom feeder that’s overtaking the Mississippi river system and posing a threat to the Great Lakes.
While it’s true that the Asian carp population has exploded within the river system, it’s a misconception that it’s a bottom feeder. Asian carp actually feeds on zooplankton and algae in the upper water columns of rivers.
“It’s time to change the perception of Asian carp in Illinois and throughout the U.S. I have worked with this fish for many years and can say without a doubt it is delicious and easy to use when prepared properly,” said Parola at the event.
Parola describes it as a “very white, tasty meat that is a cross between scallops and crab” and believes that, “The main reason the fish has not been harvested for consumption in the U.S. is the fact that it is a very bony fish. The floating bone structure of the Asian carp makes it extremely difficult to filet.”
Chicago chef Philip Foss, on his blog, thepickledtongue.com, had his own take on it, saying, “It’s more healthy, and better tasting than catfish, large mouth bass, or whitefish. To my pleasure – if not surprise – it was really good. It reminded me of bass in flavor and texture. I served it blind several times to guests with professional palates, and the response has been overwhelmingly positive.”
Both chefs agreed that deboning was a difficulty. In his experience, Foss said that, “Once the cleaning is taken into account, we are left with roughly 10 percent of usable product off of the original fish. So although the whole fish is deceptively inexpensive, the end product turns out to cost more along the lines of elite fish such as Dover sole (not to mention the ludicrous amount of labor involved in the butchering).”
Foss thinks the best use for Asian carp is in home-style meals such as stews, and in situations where mass cooking (also called institutional cooking) is required, like for schools, conventions, and the military.
“For institutional cooking, there are machines that fabricate the fish so that the waste from it would be a fraction of what we lose in the aims of having a refined portion. So perhaps by shining a little light on it from this hoity toity angle, in some small way it has been de-mystified for others to give it a try,” said Foss.
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